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See what humankind has created in moments of inspiration, faith, and curiosity, from temples to palaces to caves that housed some of the earliest fine art.
When exploring the state of Tamil Nadu or its capital, Chennai, decamp to the breezy French colonial outpost of Puducherry for a few days of seaside tranquility, tree-lined boulevards and a distinctly Indian juxtaposition of past and present. Puducherry, or Pondicherry (thus its nickname, “Pondy”), is situated on the Bay of Bengal and retains many aspects of Gallic influence, especially in architecture, language and cuisine. Spend an afternoon strolling the coastal promenade (which closes to traffic at 6 p.m.), nibbling lychee gelato and popping into the new design-savvy boutiques and art galleries, while your children scamper along the sea wall. The tranquil Pondicherry Museum hosts an impressive collection of artifacts from the city’s past, or you can venture to the Aurodhan Gallery where you will find a fine collection of Indian contemporary art. Discover the fragrant, lush Botanical Gardens aboard a toy train[?] or wander the elegant Portuguese-style Our Lady of the Immaculate Conception Cathedral. Thirty minutes north by car from Puducherry is the “City of Dawn” or Auroville, a universal township established by a disciple of Sri Aurobindo. The sprawling, manicured grounds and the giant golden sphere or Matrimandir at the center are fascinating for young explorers and parents alike. Paradise Beach, a private beach about five miles from Puducherry, is only accessible by boat from the Chunnambar Resort. Your kids can splash in the waves, play some beach volleyball and enjoy snacks from the restaurant shack.
WHEN TO GO: Visit during the winter season of November to March, when the temperatures drop to the mid-60s to low 70s and rain is scarce. Avoid monsoon season from July to September when it’s oppressively hot and humid.
WHEN TO GO: Visit Puducherry during the months of November to March when the weather is a breezy 50 to 60 degrees.
FOR KIDS: This activity is safe and enjoyable for children of all ages.
Mamallapuram, a town on India’s southern Coromandel Coast, was a thriving seaport as far back as the 1st century A.D. When the kings of the eighth-century Pallava Dynasty established their capital in nearby Kanchipuram, this seaport became one of the richest in India. It also became a center of divine architecture and sculpture. Spectacular remnants of this artistic heyday are scattered around what is now a charming, laid-back seaside fishing village strewn with giant boulders and palm trees. Among them are ancient carved cave temples featuring fascinating timeless vignettes of everyday local life from 1300 years ago, and artists’ workshops where traditional methods of sculpture and carving still thrive. One of the biggest boulders is inscribed with extraordinarily well-preserved intricate relief carvings known as “The Descent of the Ganga”, an illustration of Hindu mythology featuring celestial beings, elephants, and mythical Naga snakes. Equally impressive are the Five Rathas: giant monoliths of Hindu deities carved from single boulders that were preserved under layers of sand for hundreds of years until they were excavated in the 19th century. Nearby on the seashore, towering over the crashing waves of the Bay of Bengal stand the weathered remains of a great 7th century Dravidian pagoda: the Shore Temple, one of the oldest and most romantic structures in India.
WHEN TO GO: Take your trip to the ruins and rock carvings near the Bay of Bengal in the early winter months from November to December, after monsoon season ends.
When the Portuguese captured this forested island known as Gharapuri from the Sultan of Gujarat in the 1500s, they discovered a huge elephant sculpture on the shore and renamed the island Elephanta. Located six miles offshore in the Sea of Oman just beyond Mumbai Harbor, the island is reached by ferry from the Gateway of India monument on the Colaba seafront. Despite the elephant statue collapsing in 1814 and being relocated to Mumbai’s Jijamata Udyan gardens, the island still has examples of beautifully executed sculptures and exquisitely detailed friezes. The original name of Gharapuri translates to “city of caves,” and fittingly so, as the island features a labyrinth of caves carved during the golden age of Gupta art and sculpture between 450 and 750 AD, dedicated to Lord Shiva. Sloping steps lead up to the main cave where a magnificent Trimurti Sadashiva monolith depicting the triple aspects of Shiva as the creator, preserver and destroyer was hewn from a single rock. This, along with a giant panel showing the demon King Ravena attempting the theft of Mount Kailash while Shiva sleeps and a version of Shiva performing the cosmic dance Nataraja, are some of the finest examples of ancient Indian art.
WHEN TO GO: As visitors can only reach the island by ferry, book your visit to these magnificent caves from April to June, prior to the year’s monsoon season.